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The culture that inspired Picasso

Huanuco Pampa - City of festivals
Lanzon - the stone of power
Chavin - Picasso's inspiration
Stone Temple Secrets

Walking in the highlands of Peru alone, without a passport or money can be a forbidden adventure, itself. And if you know little or nothing Spanish, and then the situation destruction spells. But such is the bond of trekking that when things start to disintegrate, the backpackers' begin to unite.

I just lost my jacket with my passport, money, credit cards and last bar of chocolate when I met Caroline in the country Wales who was trying to polish her Spanish when traveling through remote villages. We talked about issues of mutual concern and decided to go forward together, towards the plains of Huanuco.

The range 'plains of Huanuco "were full of cattle. Some time later, when we were tired and resting in a mud house along of the old road, a middle-aged lady came on horseback to deliver milk. The owner of the mud-house was kind enough to offer cooling flow fresh milk and yogurt. I was impressed with their ability to innovate, which stores the milk in a plastic container and cut container in the stream that runs near his house. This "natural cooling" method to keep calm and keep milk from spoiling. I graciously accepted his kindness and use the milk to run down the last crumbs of bread that I had found at the bottom of my backpack.

Over the road from where we sat we could see the ruins of Hunuco what was the citidal Pampa, a city built for festivals. It lies on the main Inca highway that connects Cusco with Cajamarca. In the old days, said the porter, different ethnic groups that were part of the Inca Empire, populated the area, but why is known as the "city of festivals' is still unknown. Maybe that had something to do with the product abundant in the region or the sublime beauty. Perhaps also because it has traces of the oldest human occupation in Peru, Lauricocha village, dating back 10,000 years.

Most adventurers who come to this region like me, begin their journey from Huaraz, capital Ancash and walkers Mecca in Peru. Walking down the main street, I could see hikers supplies of vegetables, eggs, canned meat, soup packets, cooking pot and local 'pan' (bread) that lasts, happily, for over four days. Chavin, the city is three days of trekking across Huaraz flame or three hours by bus. I chose the later (and lost my jacket in it) to explore the ruins of Chavin de Huantar, the temple that existed around 1000-200 BC, a period called the Early Horizon.

Chavin de Huantar is located in the northeast of the central highlands of Peru, located between the coastal desert - one of the driest deserts the world - and the humid tropical Amazonian lowlands to the east. The famed Andean prehistoric states, culminating in the Inca Empire expansion, is situated mainly in the coastal and mountain.

However, what surprised me was the animals and plants typical of the lowlands, in Chavin Art. Most observers agree that Chavin de Huantar not have been the natural home for animals like the alligator (alligator), monkey, and plants represented in their art. But the river Mosna, which is Chavin, eventually leads to the Amazon, where they exist.

When looking at structures site, a simple sequence of construction can be postulated. An ancient temple, built in a U shape around a circular plaza. And a new temple on a larger scale that extends south and east.

Built underground, its maze of tunnels and air produces contradictory images in my mind. While on one hand, I admired the skill of the natives, always left me deeply confused by the maze pattern. In particular, I was struck by a single stone was at the center, beautifully carved in the shape of snake with human and feline features. It's called "The pike" and when I looked closely I noticed I was the shape of the eye and a tooth of a jaguar, an orangutan or a tiger. It is the art that impressed me. But it was the only one to have reached that conclusion. Even Pablo Picasso had said: "Of all the ancient cultures I admire Chavin surprised me more. In fact, it has been the inspiration behind most of my art."

"Chavín" comes from a Quechua word that means the center "of the centers, the center of the universe as a magical and sacred." If Chavin de Huantar was a temple or a fortress in the center of the Inca universe, or if the stone was Sandeel power or sacrifice is not known. An archaeologist is of the opinion that was a ceremonial center with a twist in its architecture - with drains where water can be pushed through, and the water's roar could be heard through vents and cameras in the center of it. Once done, the center, literally "roared" and you can imagine, easily, amazed at how faithful innocent would have been!

Chavin had proven links with the religious group located on the north coast and the highlands of Peru. Recent excavations have shown clearly these links by unearthing Chavin ceramics Puemape around in Cajamarca.

There so many of us who have been to Machu Picchu there are many more who know of the famous Inca citadel. But few have walked through the temple of Chavin. Archaeologist John Rick of Stanford University has been trying to convert renowned archaeological site into a tourist destination which is equal in importance to Machu Picchu. Rick, who has been digging in over 10 years, believes that this is not only feasible but also possible. The future looks promising Chavin de Huantar with support from the World Heritage Fund.

Caroline, my traveling companion told me he had decided to study the art of Chavin and stay again in Peru more than planned. But I had to give around and head back to Lima to get my new passport and return home. Sitting on the plane was still weighing the significance of Machu Picchu against Chavin de Huantar. If Machu Picchu is a magnificent testimony of Mayan architecture, Chavin is an exemplary work of its advanced understanding and intelligence. The more I think about it, more impressive results. May be one day, we know the secrets of the "stone of power", but until then will continue in mist and mystery and a source constant inspiration to us all who visit.

Jitter and Paulos Backpack